Easy Method for
Scratch Building Aircraft Instrument Panels
By Larry Grapentine
Some aircraft model kits come with really bad instrument panels that need to be replaced. By far the best looking and easiest to build panels are the photo negative and etched brass units from Eduard. But what if they don't make a set for your model, or you just don't want to spend the money on a detail set? Make it from scratch!
Very bad kit panel
My method is a variation of the "sandwich" method. The only special tool you will need is a Waldron punch set, unless you can figure out how to drill nice round holes in .010" sheet styrene without tearing it. The punch set is very useful for modeling, and is a tool that you should consider adding to your arsenal.
The materials needed are:
The decals have the black dial faces, and the needles, tick marks, and numbers are clear, and will be whatever color they are applied over. There are enough decals and bezels in each package to make quite a few panels. Reheat also makes Data Placard decals that you can add to panels as well.
Reheat instrument decals
Reheat instrument bezels
My example is from a Mirage Hobby 1/48 scale PZL 37B Polish bomber. The panel that came with the kit is just absolutely hideous. It will be hard to see once mounted in the cockpit, so for this article I'm going to make it pretty quick and simple. More complex multi-level panels are not too difficult if you plan out the assembly steps properly.
Start by deciding if you will use the kit panel for the "backing" panel, or cut one from .020" or thicker sheet styrene. If you use the kit panel, check it to see if it fits the fuselage, and correct it as needed. Sand the front flat and smooth, or cover it with sheet styrene as I have done in my example.
Next cut the panel front from .010" styrene. Shape it to fit over the backing panel exactly, although a little overhang on the bottom usually won't hurt.
Kit panel covered with sheet styrene and panel fronts cut from .010" sheet
Use a pencil to lay out the gauge locations on the panel front, and punch the proper size holes with the Waldron punch.
Panel fronts punched out with Waldron punch set.
Temporarily attach the panel front to the back using tape or white glue, making sure it is in exactly the right place. Do not block the open dial holes.
Panel fronts temporarily attached to panel back
Next use an airbrush to paint white or cream (or whatever color the instrument markings will be) through the holes in the panel front. Try to apply the paint as thin as possible, but make sure you get complete coverage. After drying, detach the panel front and you will have painted spots exactly where the decals must go. For my example, I thought I'd darken the back panel to make the painted circles show up in the photos. This proved to be a mistake, as I had to put the white paint on a lot thicker than I wanted to cover the dark color. Normally I would paint the white directly on the white sheet styrene. The white painted circles are easy to see, even on the white styrene. If you want to get fancy, use colored markers or paint to add color to any instruments that need it.
After removing panel fronts, decals are applied to white painted circles with Future
I use flat white paint, and apply the decals directly to the flat paint with Future floor polish. Just put a dot of Future on the painted circle, apply the decal, and position it exactly in the center. The Future will pull the tiny decal down onto the flat paint just fine. You could gloss coat and apply the decals using setting solution if you prefer. You will have to apply the decals a few at a time so that a decal has time to dry a bit before you apply the one right next to it. After all the decals are applied, brush 2-3 thin coats of Future over the entire panel. This will simulate the glass instrument faces.
All decals on, with 2 coats of Future on top
Add the PE brass bezels to he front panel as needed. Again, I use the magic liquid, Future, to glue the bezels to the styrene. For me, using CA glue results in more smears, And the Future gives me more time to position the bezel. The Future is not as strong, and the bezels can pop off of you don't handle carefully.
Bezels attached to panel front
Airbrush the front panel with the appropriate color, and make sure you get inside the holes to cover any white showing. Apply any placard decals at this time, and apply your flat coat if needed. Any dry brushing should be done now as well. I made some switches from wire for my panel on the right side where there are no gauges.
I also experimented with adding some drops of Gallery Glass to simulate unlit light bulbs on the panel. Gallery Glass is sold in craft stores for the purpose of making fake stained glass windows. It is water based, very viscous, and dries translucent, and is available in many colors.
Next, glue the front panel to the back panel with a thick coat of Future, being careful not to get Future on anything that is supposed to have a flat finish. This adds another gloss coat to the dials to make the "glass effect". Let it dry overnight, and touch up the edges with paint if needed.
Completed panel
The panel is finished! It's hard to tell in this photo, but the gauge faces really Look like glass against the flat finished panel. I spent about 2 hours working on this "quickie" for the article, and with a little more time and effort you can make something really nice.